From today's New York Times:
" QUOTATION OF THE DAY -
"We're going back to the drawing board. With an earthquake or a major terrorist attack, we'd obviously have no warning. We haven't looked at mass evacuation or temporary housing for hundreds of thousands of people."
- SANDRA S. HUTCHENS, chief of the office of homeland security at the Los Angeles County Sheriff's Department."
The government has supposedly been building plans to protect the average citizen since 9/11 happened 4 years ago. Conducting mass evacuations would seem to be very near the top of the list one would think. But then we made that assumption that anybody appointed by the current White House can actually think. The 2 recent examples of mass evacuations were not shining examples of success. Many people spent 12 to 14 hours traveling 50 miles in the malay. We better hope that there is not an attach that requires a mass evacuation from a major city soon. More people will be killed in the exodus that by the cause of the exodus.
On a very different subject, but related to the carnage in Louisiana, is the destruction of wetlands by man that historically protected man from storms such as Katrina and Rita. The wetlands that existed there a 100 years ago acted as a sponge and buffer to the communities that had settled in the bayou. Now with the aggressive building and mindless destruction of the wetlands that natural buffer has been removed.
The arrogant march of mans greed to destroy the wetlands is come full clarity. At least to those who are willing to look for it. Katrina and Rita are not sent by God to punish evil doers. It is not natures wrath. Hurricanes have been around since the earth first had oceans. When man chooses to build housing and businesses in the known common paths of hurricanes and mindlessly destroys the natural protection that nature has provided against the hurricanes, then we must look in the mirror and recognize our own folly. Not blame the unseen God or Mother nature. They had nothing to to do with this. The global warming that is warming the oceans, melting the iceflows and fueling massive hurricanes is all a direct consequence of man's arrogant march to so called progress.
If we do not change our ways to live less destructively and in greater harmony with the natural resources and conditions around us we will pay the price for that choice. (At least our children and their children will).
Sunday, September 25, 2005
Monday, July 04, 2005
It did not take long, the damage will be for ever
In today's New Your Times there is a report about draft legislation that will gut the Endangered Species Act to mere scraps, rendering it ineffective in protecting the earth from man's onslaught ( at least here in the US). The Bush Brigade believes they finally have enough support to kill this law that has protected our fragile lands and species so effectively. Protected it from greed and plunder by big business. Protected it from plain stupidity by our so called leaders. Protected it from short sighted needs when the long term goals are what is important.
The new approach will focus on the short term, explicitly stating that the long term approach of the current law is not needed. This is exactly what the current law is about, protecting the lands and species from people who think short term. The earth and all that lives on it have grown to their current state over millions of years. There is nothing short term in nature, nothing that you can change and fix overnight. You do not tell a species to take an aspirin and come back in the morning if it does not feel better. Species are being wiped out around the earth on a daily basis due to short term thinking. We cannot allow more short term thinking to further rip our precious land to shreds.
Today we celebrate our freedom. Remember that includes your right to stand up for what you care about and believe in. It is now needed more than ever. Stand up and tell the politicians to protect our earth but to do it with the long term future in mind, not short term profits. Tell them hands off our species, our lands our future.
See article: http://www.nytimes.com/2005/07/04/politics/04species.html?ex=1121140800&en=aa6b4aee77a33d87&ei=5070&emc=eta1
The new approach will focus on the short term, explicitly stating that the long term approach of the current law is not needed. This is exactly what the current law is about, protecting the lands and species from people who think short term. The earth and all that lives on it have grown to their current state over millions of years. There is nothing short term in nature, nothing that you can change and fix overnight. You do not tell a species to take an aspirin and come back in the morning if it does not feel better. Species are being wiped out around the earth on a daily basis due to short term thinking. We cannot allow more short term thinking to further rip our precious land to shreds.
Today we celebrate our freedom. Remember that includes your right to stand up for what you care about and believe in. It is now needed more than ever. Stand up and tell the politicians to protect our earth but to do it with the long term future in mind, not short term profits. Tell them hands off our species, our lands our future.
See article: http://www.nytimes.com/2005/07/04/politics/04species.html?ex=1121140800&en=aa6b4aee77a33d87&ei=5070&emc=eta1
Saturday, July 02, 2005
Summer is heating up
Summer started early in Texas this year. It is July 2nd and we already have had 3 days over 100 degrees and 30 days without rain. Not a good start to what is going to be a very long, dry and scorching summer. I am not talking about the weather now.
The country is about to witness a few key choices that will be made to shape our legal system, our environment and our freedom this summer. The Supreme Court must get some new faces added that will direct critical decisions for the next 20 to 30 years. The prospects for the environment have been getting dimmer for the past 6 years under the onslaught from the Bush brigade, now we risk having some of that mind set and destruction moving into the highest court in our land. Hand in hand with decimating the earth we need to protect we will also see our freedoms being eroded further. We hear that we are fighting a war for democracy and freedom abroad, but our personal freedoms at home are slowly being eroded away just like our earth is being gouged by oil drills and the air soured by emission from profit greed.
History will look back on this time as the depression of vision and thought in the White House. When the people of America were bankrupted by the lack of thinking and consideration of the long term needs of our country, when short term greed and emotional rhetoric ruled the day.
The country is about to witness a few key choices that will be made to shape our legal system, our environment and our freedom this summer. The Supreme Court must get some new faces added that will direct critical decisions for the next 20 to 30 years. The prospects for the environment have been getting dimmer for the past 6 years under the onslaught from the Bush brigade, now we risk having some of that mind set and destruction moving into the highest court in our land. Hand in hand with decimating the earth we need to protect we will also see our freedoms being eroded further. We hear that we are fighting a war for democracy and freedom abroad, but our personal freedoms at home are slowly being eroded away just like our earth is being gouged by oil drills and the air soured by emission from profit greed.
History will look back on this time as the depression of vision and thought in the White House. When the people of America were bankrupted by the lack of thinking and consideration of the long term needs of our country, when short term greed and emotional rhetoric ruled the day.
Saturday, March 26, 2005
More 1984
During this past week I heard a brief news report that just blew my mind. A new IMAX movie has been released, but will not be show in several states. Why you ask? Simple, religious censorship by the governments of those states. The film is about volcanoes, including under-sea volcanoes. Apparently microbes have been found in the water near the underwater volcanoes that have genetic links to humans. The narration in the movie suggests that it potentially supports the notion of evolution. So these states decided this may offend people that do not accept the notion of evolution, but who believe the fairy tale about Adam and Eve instead. What ever happened to free speech? What happened to open minded presentation of information and letting us make a choice for ourselves. Who put these morons that are deciding what I can and cannot see in these positions of power? By the way, these movies are a choice to go and see, and I must pay to see them. Nobody is forcing them down my throat. But my choice has been taken away by a bigot that has decided he or she knows what I should be watching.
Just harping back to the ongoing political farce in Florida, where the Republicans are getting their butts whipped by the Judiciary, I am amazed that people are not asking these self righteous twits to please explain why they went so far as to enact a new law to try and stop a brain dead person from dying, but send thousands of troops to fight and kill or be killed in an unjust and un-needed war. This simply does not make sense. Oh, by the way, for those who did not know this, when George was Texas governor he passed a law in Texas that gave the right of decision making over whether a brain-dead person gets to live or die based on whether there is money to keep them alive. Now, a few years later, that position seems to have changed radically. What, did the hospitals in Florida not give enough to Jed's re-election campaign?
Just harping back to the ongoing political farce in Florida, where the Republicans are getting their butts whipped by the Judiciary, I am amazed that people are not asking these self righteous twits to please explain why they went so far as to enact a new law to try and stop a brain dead person from dying, but send thousands of troops to fight and kill or be killed in an unjust and un-needed war. This simply does not make sense. Oh, by the way, for those who did not know this, when George was Texas governor he passed a law in Texas that gave the right of decision making over whether a brain-dead person gets to live or die based on whether there is money to keep them alive. Now, a few years later, that position seems to have changed radically. What, did the hospitals in Florida not give enough to Jed's re-election campaign?
Sunday, March 20, 2005
It is 1984 in 2005!
Over the past 4 plus years of reign by George Bush we have seen the ongoing and relentless erosion of rights and freedom in the USA. The latest case is the Schiavo Case in Florida where the government is getting deeply involved in a very personal and private family matter. The motivations of the politicians are the usual ones of control. They are also further blurring the separation of church and state with their actions in this case. Not only are they getting into a personal issue they should be staying out of, they are bringing their personal religious beliefs into play and forcing them down our throats once again.
The other example that comes to mind is a recent report in the NY Times about the government pre-making "news" reports that are playing on the news channels and is presented as news. This should be identified for what it really is, propaganda by the government to shape our thinking and behavior.
The great irony is that we have sent thousands of troops to Iraq, many to die to give the people there "freedom", but our own freedom is being undermined and slowly taken away by the same people in the government. What is even more ironic is that the government they are on the verge of instating in Iraq will most likely be a religious based one that will promote a society that essentially has no real freedom, other than those tolerated by the Muslim faith. We are slowly declining into a similar state right here in the US. Religious beliefs are rapidly oozing into every aspect of life in the US. The government is telling us how to live our lives at every level. The most ludicrous example I saw recently was some moronic local politician here in Texas wants to add legislation controlling the dancing of cheerleaders at functions as the are too sexual at present.
This intrusion into the privacy of individuals and erosion of freedom and rights must stop if this country is to remain the great place it has always been. Stand up an take your country back!
The other example that comes to mind is a recent report in the NY Times about the government pre-making "news" reports that are playing on the news channels and is presented as news. This should be identified for what it really is, propaganda by the government to shape our thinking and behavior.
The great irony is that we have sent thousands of troops to Iraq, many to die to give the people there "freedom", but our own freedom is being undermined and slowly taken away by the same people in the government. What is even more ironic is that the government they are on the verge of instating in Iraq will most likely be a religious based one that will promote a society that essentially has no real freedom, other than those tolerated by the Muslim faith. We are slowly declining into a similar state right here in the US. Religious beliefs are rapidly oozing into every aspect of life in the US. The government is telling us how to live our lives at every level. The most ludicrous example I saw recently was some moronic local politician here in Texas wants to add legislation controlling the dancing of cheerleaders at functions as the are too sexual at present.
This intrusion into the privacy of individuals and erosion of freedom and rights must stop if this country is to remain the great place it has always been. Stand up an take your country back!
Sunday, March 06, 2005
A journey to the past and the future
February 09, 2005
Not an auspicious start. The flight to Atlanta, leg one of 4 to our destination is late, 3 hours late. Luckily our connection in Atlanta is in the morning. We finally get to our “hotel” at Midnight. Hopefully we are getting all the mishaps and bad luck out of the way early. Side note. Using online booking services like Hotels.com might be convenient and save you money, but you might not get what you were expecting. Fortunately we were only going spend about 5 hours in the dump we got. Unfortunately the place made you feel like you were covered in fleas.
February 10, 2005
We got to the airport early. Good thing too. We had to get some airline imposed changes made to out tickets. That took about 30 minutes. But the result was worth it. We got a row with four seats to share between 2 of us. The 16 hours of flying would be more tolerable with some space to move around and maybe get some sleep. The first leg was 6.5 hours with a refueling stop of 1 hour followed by another 8 hour leg to Johannesburg. Then the final leg of another hour or so to Port Elizabeth.
February 11, 2005
This would be the first time we step on our birth soil in 21 years. The excitement was building. The place will differently look different to when we left. Boy were we surprised. Very pleasantly as well. We needed to buy a new ticket to accommodate changes to our schedule. Instead of flying to Cape Town and driving to Port Elizabeth, we would fly directly to PE. What a good choice. Driving 650 kilometers after 2 days of sitting in aircraft would not have been a lot of fun. Here was the first sign that things were going to be really good. When we boarded they gave us new seat assignments, free upgrades to business class. That was good. Not only were we going to get to our destination for the night early, we were going to get there very comfortably.
We had been told there was a serious drought in the country. The scene below us was a carpet of greens in all directions. No drought in sight. Apparently the drought is focused around Cape Town in the western Cape. Well we will be there in a few days. We will see how bad it is then.
PE was another surprise. We picked a hotel at random. It was a relatively new place, part of a big international chain. It turns out it is part of a large complex that includes a multitude of shops, movie theater, casino and great restaurants. We picked a Greek restaurant and had some excellent lamb dishes. It has been many years since we had a really good Greek dinner. They seem to be so hard to come by in the US.
February 12, 2005
Two hours of driving gets us to our initial destination. Kariega Private Game reserve in the Eastern Cape. Our first outing would be a 4x4 drive starting at 4pm. We had a great lunch and pottered about getting ready for the drive.
What a drive it was. The game ranger has no fear of driving anywhere that vehicle could actually go. Track or not track in the bush. We had a great outing. We saw Impala, Waterbuck, Eland, Elephant, and after dark we came across two young male lions. We followed them for about 30 minutes. It was about 9pm when we made it back. Exhilarated by what we saw. Hungry as well. After a Kudu steak and some fine wine sleep jumped all over us. We will need to get up at 5am for the morning for the dawn drive and river cruise.
February 13, 2005
At 5am the sun was creeping over the horizon, a large orange ball of color easing into the horizon. We were ready to hit the tracks again and we did. We saw more antelope, giraffes, zebra and finally a white rhino. He was just lying in the middle of a large expanse of grassland. We approached within 25 feet. He just lay there. Finally he arose, posed for pictures and turned away, having done his duty for the tourists, paid his way.
We saw some beautiful birds as well, a European Bee-eater, finches, ducks of various sorts, Knysa Lourie, buzzard and eagles. Of course we saw Vervet monkeys scurrying about in the trees as well.
Butterflies are every where. The colorful shield spiders are everywhere. Their webs are immense traps for the unwary. They spanned six feet in many cases, hanging delicately between tree tips.
The afternoon drive was fun! A new group of people to talk to while experiencing the unfolding scene before us. We found our white rhino friend from the morning. He has moved on quite a bit and was mowing the grass very efficiently. White rhinos are specialist short grass eaters, and they leave a nice short lawn behind them as then trundle forward.
We also met up with the herd of elephant from the previous night. They were much calmer tonight. Not as irritated by our presence as before. I managed to get some really good shots this time.
Out two young male lions were strolling along the same road we saw them the previous night. Playing like two young kittens. Hiding and pouncing on one another. We headed for dinner after another fulfilling day.
February 14, 2005
Valentines day. Better not forget. I did not. I delivered my cards and a surprise gift that did the trick. The day will be good.
We went for an unguided hike starting at 5:30am. The trail was called the Wildebeest Trail and we ran into a herd of them right at the outset. They scampered off into the thick bush were they hoped we would not follow them. They were right, our path led another way, into the rising sun. The air was clean and cool, not cold. A great time for a walk in the bush. We saw lots of wild flowers and insects, and the call of many birds, treated to a flash of color or swift flight to make sure they were at a safe distance from us. At the furthest point we reached a lookout over a beautiful valley with a medium sized river meandering through it. What a reward for our effort. A sight to please anybody. If you did not see beauty in this, you were either dead, or should be.
A hearty breakfast after our 3 hour early morning walk was consumed eagerly. That morning air sure builds an appetite.
I went on a second walk a little later. It was a little shorter but was filled with wonder. Many shield spiders blocked the path with their elaborate and beautiful webs, sitting in the center, waiting for their next meal to succumb. A small group of zebra added some excitement to the walk, basically ignoring you, but a close watch revealed they were stealing glimpses all along.
The evening drive tonight was the last one of this trip to Kariega. We encountered 3 rhino early on and then after a rather adventurous ride up the side of a steep hill and over multiple small trees and bushes we found ourselves in the middle of a herd of elephant. The matriarch (also the leader of the herd) was none to pleased at first, and approached the 4x4 rather ominously. Our ranger talked to here in a calm and quiet tone and she calmed down. Backed off and continued with her destructive eating. We sat among them for about 20 minutes just enjoying being part of the herd. Watching them dexterously stripy the sweet leaves they want from the thorny acacias. Rip a small shrub or tree out of the ground, neatly shaking it free of soil and consuming it rather nonchalantly.
February 15, 2005
We were up early, ready for our last morning and our drive to the Karoo in the western Cape. A quick short hike to finish the visit. I found multiple large spider webs, with the beautiful and colorful inhabitants. After some pictures we headed back. After breakfast we were back on the road.
The drive along the coast was spectacular. Plettenbergbay was great stop for lunch. A stunning beach, white sand and a colorful town. A quick lunch and we were off.
We chose to take a side route, off the beaten path onto the Tsitsikamma Forest. The trees reaching for the clear blue sky, in many shades of green, each its own design, its own unique little world. We had learned that the forests that start in this general vicinity are poart of the plant kingdom called Fynbos. The smallest plant kingdom, but very rich in varieties. The name comes from the fact that most of the leaves on the plants in this kingdom are very small, or fine. Fyn is the Afrikaans word for fine.
Suddenly there was a sign, Wolf Sanctuary! There are no wolves in this part of the world, not naturally at least. We could not resist. We had to investigate. This was both a hopeful and depressing place. The wolves are all rescued from unscrupulous people that smuggled them into the country illegally many years ago. Some were part of an experiment to cross breed the wolves with dogs to create a super guard dog. As could be expected it failed. Hybrids, as they are called, also retain there wolf nature, the unpredicableness cannot be managed or bred away. So here they are with all these wolves that need a safe place to live. Stuck in a climate that does not suite these wonderful animals, forcing them to adapt and shed twice a year. They just need to hang out in the dens created for them. Most of them have very serious hip displaysha and spend their time sleeping. Only 2 of the 50 or so wolves looked lively and happy.
This sanctuary is an example of place they should not need to exist. But due to man’s crass arrogance and stupidity it does. These animals have had miserable lives and in some cases they are being kept alive to please humans. Many of them would be better of being euthanized. One of the wolves is deaf and close to being totally blind. Many are in clear pain when they try to move.
We moved on with heavy hearts. We love wolves and do what we can to support their protection. This place is both a blessing and a curse. At least these animals are protected in their waning years. Regrettably it will be in suffering and pain.
We reached our destination, Worcester by late afternoon, ready to start phase 2 of our journey.
February 16, 2005
We drove to a small game park today, called the Bontebok Park. This a small place with a unique inhabitant, the Bontebok. There are a small number of these beautiful animals left in the world, and this place is where they live. Roaming around in small groups, either on their own, or with Zebra or Red Hartebeest. The dirt road was a little rough on the car, but it was worth the drive.
While there are hints of green on the mountains, it is very dry. The worst drought this region has seen in recoded history. Some places have not had rain in 8 years. The vineyards are struggling. Many need to either close down, or cut back there operations substantially. The main water supply in the Hex River valley, a key wine growing region is a man made dam. Currently it is one third full and the level is dropping daily.
February 17, 2005
We have been visiting our birth land for some time now. It is our first return in 21 years. It has changed in many ways. For a start the driving has become very aggressive. As a non-local you really need to pay attention. It is interesting that the driving has degenerated to be similar to what I have seen in several so called undeveloped countries. So be warned. If you get into a car here, pay attention. Your life will depend on it.
It has been 10 years since there was a radical change in government, from one dominated by Caucasians to one dominated by the Xhosa tribe. It is interesting to observe how people now behave. It is very different to when we left. There is a levels of apparent cooperation and civil interaction between the many ethnic groups that make up the population, but if you really look you will see there is a strong undercurrent and tension. Amongst the Caucasians there is almost a palpable desperation that the current state of cooperation and apparent peaceful state will continue. It is clear that if that were not true their lives would become miserable, either because it will be civil war, or because they will become the under trodden. For the non-Caucasian groups you almost get the feeling they do not care, except for the people of mixed race. Historically known as the “colored” people. They are a substantial ethnic group with a unique culture and lifestyle. For the black ethnic groups the future can not be worse than the past, so any future is OK. At least that is what many believe.
This is clearly not true, but from their perspective and historic context it is understandable. My personal fear has long been that this country will erupt in civil war at some point. I thought it would have happened already, but everything I see around me tells me that it is still very possible, all that is needed is the spark, and that could be anything. Unrest is still frequent. The causes are many. Any one can be the one spark that sets it aglow.
February 18-20, 2005
We have been visiting with family and just relaxing. There is not much to do in small town in the middle of the Karoo. Daily outings to photograph the mountains is a highlight.
Reading the paper, listening to the news and to local people all confirms the earlier conclusions. This place is a powder keg waiting for a spark. There is tension in many places. Racial tension is probably the least significant issue. Financial divides, homelessness, unemployment, HIV/Aids and government interference at all levels of life are much more significant. Trade unions have gained in size and power and appear to be increasingly at odds with the current government. This in itself is a key issue. The current government is actually very careful and conservative.
All actions they take are careful and implemented slowly and with caution. The unions are much more aggressive and want action much faster. As can be expected they have a strongly socialist agenda which is not necessarily what the bulk of the people want or understand. Historically the country has been capitalist and the economy is one built on free enterprise. In the past 10 years government regulation has overwhelmed business and is strangling small business. It is becoming almost impossible to start a small business since they are subject to the same bureaucracy and overhead a large corporation, requiring payment of health insurance; pension funds contributions and group insurances even if you employ only 2 or 3 people. In addition, it is almost impossible to terminate an employee, no matter how badly they perform. Just about the only way to terminate people is to shut the business down. If you do that, you cannot start he same type of business for several years. If you do start the same business again, you must re-employ the same people if they have not found new employment.
On the subject of AIDs the government is in denial. In a report from the government this week reported on the fatality rates across age groups in the country. The 30-40 year old group now has the highest mortality rate in the country. However, most deaths, while caused by AIDs are reported and officially recorded as TB or pneumonia. All this is doing is further exacerbating the problem. No one really knows the true rate of infection in the country, but this is sure, it is very high. Official estimates are around 10%, but other are as high as 25%.
Clearly these are not conditions that stimulate growth in an economy and the resulting tensions amongst the employed and unemployed, the haves and have-nots are building. With some good fortune they can resolve the issues, but it will take a few small miracles.
We drove down to Stellenbosch for dinner with some relatives this evening.
Moyo at the Spier Winery was a great experience. An interesting blend of traditional food, authentic African dance, music, and face painting with a modern touch of marketing and presentation. We had a great time, loved the food and enjoyed catching up with 21 years of news!
February 21, 22, 23, 2005
We went on a long day trip to Oudshorn to visit the Cango Caves and places I knew during my youth. The drive was scenic and refreshed old memories, updating images from long ago. In some cases the images were significantly different; usually the towns were smaller and often crumbling into oblivion.
A visit to a bird sanctuary was interesting, but as often the case with such places there is a touch of sadness. Only 2 of the species in the aviaries were from Africa, all the others were from other continents. Most birds seemed to be content, but the larger Macaws were clearly stressed one had pulled all the feathers it could reach from it body.
These creatures must be protected; I just wish we can do it with less exploitation.
February 24,25,26, 2005
We spent the last days before our return to the USA in Cape Town. This was a good way to end the journey. It also reflects the issues facing the country. Cape Town has 2 clear parts, the part where the wealthy live, shop, work and eat and the part where the poor survive. The wealthy live in apparent oblivion to the underlying issues. When talking to local folks they are optimistic (as they need to be), but they do not see the tensions and potential flashpoints as clearly since they are in the situation.
On our last morning we had a conversation with the porter that helped us carry our luggage to our car. He was a black man. He told us that is was very worried about the future. That things are very unstable and he can wait for his son to finish school and go to university that they he will have the opportunity to possible leave for another country where there may be a better future. He said that under the new government things had gotten bad for everybody. White, black, yellow, no matter what color your skin or what language you spoke. (By the way South Africa has 11 official languages. I did not mention South Africa before, if you had not guessed it yet). He has been a plant foreman under the previous government, but when the change can in the mid nineties he lost his job. All the good jobs were given to family and friends of the new government, He had gotten the job at the American owned hotel, because his wife had a good track record there and could refer him into the company.
February 27, 28, 2005
Well the long trek back is nearly complete. I am writing this on the last leg of 4 back to Texas. 19 hours of flying time and 5 hours waiting for connections. So far all has progressed smoothly.
It will be back to work tomorrow. This journey back will stay with us for a long time. We are changed by it. We now fear the future in SA a little more than before. When Mandela dies, which cannot be that far in the future, things could fall apart quickly. Similarly, if the next premier is not careful like Nbeke is, the flashpoints could set flame to the political tinder box very easily and very quickly. I hope we are wrong.
It’s good to back on US soil.
Not an auspicious start. The flight to Atlanta, leg one of 4 to our destination is late, 3 hours late. Luckily our connection in Atlanta is in the morning. We finally get to our “hotel” at Midnight. Hopefully we are getting all the mishaps and bad luck out of the way early. Side note. Using online booking services like Hotels.com might be convenient and save you money, but you might not get what you were expecting. Fortunately we were only going spend about 5 hours in the dump we got. Unfortunately the place made you feel like you were covered in fleas.
February 10, 2005
We got to the airport early. Good thing too. We had to get some airline imposed changes made to out tickets. That took about 30 minutes. But the result was worth it. We got a row with four seats to share between 2 of us. The 16 hours of flying would be more tolerable with some space to move around and maybe get some sleep. The first leg was 6.5 hours with a refueling stop of 1 hour followed by another 8 hour leg to Johannesburg. Then the final leg of another hour or so to Port Elizabeth.
February 11, 2005
This would be the first time we step on our birth soil in 21 years. The excitement was building. The place will differently look different to when we left. Boy were we surprised. Very pleasantly as well. We needed to buy a new ticket to accommodate changes to our schedule. Instead of flying to Cape Town and driving to Port Elizabeth, we would fly directly to PE. What a good choice. Driving 650 kilometers after 2 days of sitting in aircraft would not have been a lot of fun. Here was the first sign that things were going to be really good. When we boarded they gave us new seat assignments, free upgrades to business class. That was good. Not only were we going to get to our destination for the night early, we were going to get there very comfortably.
We had been told there was a serious drought in the country. The scene below us was a carpet of greens in all directions. No drought in sight. Apparently the drought is focused around Cape Town in the western Cape. Well we will be there in a few days. We will see how bad it is then.
PE was another surprise. We picked a hotel at random. It was a relatively new place, part of a big international chain. It turns out it is part of a large complex that includes a multitude of shops, movie theater, casino and great restaurants. We picked a Greek restaurant and had some excellent lamb dishes. It has been many years since we had a really good Greek dinner. They seem to be so hard to come by in the US.
February 12, 2005
Two hours of driving gets us to our initial destination. Kariega Private Game reserve in the Eastern Cape. Our first outing would be a 4x4 drive starting at 4pm. We had a great lunch and pottered about getting ready for the drive.
What a drive it was. The game ranger has no fear of driving anywhere that vehicle could actually go. Track or not track in the bush. We had a great outing. We saw Impala, Waterbuck, Eland, Elephant, and after dark we came across two young male lions. We followed them for about 30 minutes. It was about 9pm when we made it back. Exhilarated by what we saw. Hungry as well. After a Kudu steak and some fine wine sleep jumped all over us. We will need to get up at 5am for the morning for the dawn drive and river cruise.
February 13, 2005
At 5am the sun was creeping over the horizon, a large orange ball of color easing into the horizon. We were ready to hit the tracks again and we did. We saw more antelope, giraffes, zebra and finally a white rhino. He was just lying in the middle of a large expanse of grassland. We approached within 25 feet. He just lay there. Finally he arose, posed for pictures and turned away, having done his duty for the tourists, paid his way.
We saw some beautiful birds as well, a European Bee-eater, finches, ducks of various sorts, Knysa Lourie, buzzard and eagles. Of course we saw Vervet monkeys scurrying about in the trees as well.
Butterflies are every where. The colorful shield spiders are everywhere. Their webs are immense traps for the unwary. They spanned six feet in many cases, hanging delicately between tree tips.
The afternoon drive was fun! A new group of people to talk to while experiencing the unfolding scene before us. We found our white rhino friend from the morning. He has moved on quite a bit and was mowing the grass very efficiently. White rhinos are specialist short grass eaters, and they leave a nice short lawn behind them as then trundle forward.
We also met up with the herd of elephant from the previous night. They were much calmer tonight. Not as irritated by our presence as before. I managed to get some really good shots this time.
Out two young male lions were strolling along the same road we saw them the previous night. Playing like two young kittens. Hiding and pouncing on one another. We headed for dinner after another fulfilling day.
February 14, 2005
Valentines day. Better not forget. I did not. I delivered my cards and a surprise gift that did the trick. The day will be good.
We went for an unguided hike starting at 5:30am. The trail was called the Wildebeest Trail and we ran into a herd of them right at the outset. They scampered off into the thick bush were they hoped we would not follow them. They were right, our path led another way, into the rising sun. The air was clean and cool, not cold. A great time for a walk in the bush. We saw lots of wild flowers and insects, and the call of many birds, treated to a flash of color or swift flight to make sure they were at a safe distance from us. At the furthest point we reached a lookout over a beautiful valley with a medium sized river meandering through it. What a reward for our effort. A sight to please anybody. If you did not see beauty in this, you were either dead, or should be.
A hearty breakfast after our 3 hour early morning walk was consumed eagerly. That morning air sure builds an appetite.
I went on a second walk a little later. It was a little shorter but was filled with wonder. Many shield spiders blocked the path with their elaborate and beautiful webs, sitting in the center, waiting for their next meal to succumb. A small group of zebra added some excitement to the walk, basically ignoring you, but a close watch revealed they were stealing glimpses all along.
The evening drive tonight was the last one of this trip to Kariega. We encountered 3 rhino early on and then after a rather adventurous ride up the side of a steep hill and over multiple small trees and bushes we found ourselves in the middle of a herd of elephant. The matriarch (also the leader of the herd) was none to pleased at first, and approached the 4x4 rather ominously. Our ranger talked to here in a calm and quiet tone and she calmed down. Backed off and continued with her destructive eating. We sat among them for about 20 minutes just enjoying being part of the herd. Watching them dexterously stripy the sweet leaves they want from the thorny acacias. Rip a small shrub or tree out of the ground, neatly shaking it free of soil and consuming it rather nonchalantly.
February 15, 2005
We were up early, ready for our last morning and our drive to the Karoo in the western Cape. A quick short hike to finish the visit. I found multiple large spider webs, with the beautiful and colorful inhabitants. After some pictures we headed back. After breakfast we were back on the road.
The drive along the coast was spectacular. Plettenbergbay was great stop for lunch. A stunning beach, white sand and a colorful town. A quick lunch and we were off.
We chose to take a side route, off the beaten path onto the Tsitsikamma Forest. The trees reaching for the clear blue sky, in many shades of green, each its own design, its own unique little world. We had learned that the forests that start in this general vicinity are poart of the plant kingdom called Fynbos. The smallest plant kingdom, but very rich in varieties. The name comes from the fact that most of the leaves on the plants in this kingdom are very small, or fine. Fyn is the Afrikaans word for fine.
Suddenly there was a sign, Wolf Sanctuary! There are no wolves in this part of the world, not naturally at least. We could not resist. We had to investigate. This was both a hopeful and depressing place. The wolves are all rescued from unscrupulous people that smuggled them into the country illegally many years ago. Some were part of an experiment to cross breed the wolves with dogs to create a super guard dog. As could be expected it failed. Hybrids, as they are called, also retain there wolf nature, the unpredicableness cannot be managed or bred away. So here they are with all these wolves that need a safe place to live. Stuck in a climate that does not suite these wonderful animals, forcing them to adapt and shed twice a year. They just need to hang out in the dens created for them. Most of them have very serious hip displaysha and spend their time sleeping. Only 2 of the 50 or so wolves looked lively and happy.
This sanctuary is an example of place they should not need to exist. But due to man’s crass arrogance and stupidity it does. These animals have had miserable lives and in some cases they are being kept alive to please humans. Many of them would be better of being euthanized. One of the wolves is deaf and close to being totally blind. Many are in clear pain when they try to move.
We moved on with heavy hearts. We love wolves and do what we can to support their protection. This place is both a blessing and a curse. At least these animals are protected in their waning years. Regrettably it will be in suffering and pain.
We reached our destination, Worcester by late afternoon, ready to start phase 2 of our journey.
February 16, 2005
We drove to a small game park today, called the Bontebok Park. This a small place with a unique inhabitant, the Bontebok. There are a small number of these beautiful animals left in the world, and this place is where they live. Roaming around in small groups, either on their own, or with Zebra or Red Hartebeest. The dirt road was a little rough on the car, but it was worth the drive.
While there are hints of green on the mountains, it is very dry. The worst drought this region has seen in recoded history. Some places have not had rain in 8 years. The vineyards are struggling. Many need to either close down, or cut back there operations substantially. The main water supply in the Hex River valley, a key wine growing region is a man made dam. Currently it is one third full and the level is dropping daily.
February 17, 2005
We have been visiting our birth land for some time now. It is our first return in 21 years. It has changed in many ways. For a start the driving has become very aggressive. As a non-local you really need to pay attention. It is interesting that the driving has degenerated to be similar to what I have seen in several so called undeveloped countries. So be warned. If you get into a car here, pay attention. Your life will depend on it.
It has been 10 years since there was a radical change in government, from one dominated by Caucasians to one dominated by the Xhosa tribe. It is interesting to observe how people now behave. It is very different to when we left. There is a levels of apparent cooperation and civil interaction between the many ethnic groups that make up the population, but if you really look you will see there is a strong undercurrent and tension. Amongst the Caucasians there is almost a palpable desperation that the current state of cooperation and apparent peaceful state will continue. It is clear that if that were not true their lives would become miserable, either because it will be civil war, or because they will become the under trodden. For the non-Caucasian groups you almost get the feeling they do not care, except for the people of mixed race. Historically known as the “colored” people. They are a substantial ethnic group with a unique culture and lifestyle. For the black ethnic groups the future can not be worse than the past, so any future is OK. At least that is what many believe.
This is clearly not true, but from their perspective and historic context it is understandable. My personal fear has long been that this country will erupt in civil war at some point. I thought it would have happened already, but everything I see around me tells me that it is still very possible, all that is needed is the spark, and that could be anything. Unrest is still frequent. The causes are many. Any one can be the one spark that sets it aglow.
February 18-20, 2005
We have been visiting with family and just relaxing. There is not much to do in small town in the middle of the Karoo. Daily outings to photograph the mountains is a highlight.
Reading the paper, listening to the news and to local people all confirms the earlier conclusions. This place is a powder keg waiting for a spark. There is tension in many places. Racial tension is probably the least significant issue. Financial divides, homelessness, unemployment, HIV/Aids and government interference at all levels of life are much more significant. Trade unions have gained in size and power and appear to be increasingly at odds with the current government. This in itself is a key issue. The current government is actually very careful and conservative.
All actions they take are careful and implemented slowly and with caution. The unions are much more aggressive and want action much faster. As can be expected they have a strongly socialist agenda which is not necessarily what the bulk of the people want or understand. Historically the country has been capitalist and the economy is one built on free enterprise. In the past 10 years government regulation has overwhelmed business and is strangling small business. It is becoming almost impossible to start a small business since they are subject to the same bureaucracy and overhead a large corporation, requiring payment of health insurance; pension funds contributions and group insurances even if you employ only 2 or 3 people. In addition, it is almost impossible to terminate an employee, no matter how badly they perform. Just about the only way to terminate people is to shut the business down. If you do that, you cannot start he same type of business for several years. If you do start the same business again, you must re-employ the same people if they have not found new employment.
On the subject of AIDs the government is in denial. In a report from the government this week reported on the fatality rates across age groups in the country. The 30-40 year old group now has the highest mortality rate in the country. However, most deaths, while caused by AIDs are reported and officially recorded as TB or pneumonia. All this is doing is further exacerbating the problem. No one really knows the true rate of infection in the country, but this is sure, it is very high. Official estimates are around 10%, but other are as high as 25%.
Clearly these are not conditions that stimulate growth in an economy and the resulting tensions amongst the employed and unemployed, the haves and have-nots are building. With some good fortune they can resolve the issues, but it will take a few small miracles.
We drove down to Stellenbosch for dinner with some relatives this evening.
Moyo at the Spier Winery was a great experience. An interesting blend of traditional food, authentic African dance, music, and face painting with a modern touch of marketing and presentation. We had a great time, loved the food and enjoyed catching up with 21 years of news!
February 21, 22, 23, 2005
We went on a long day trip to Oudshorn to visit the Cango Caves and places I knew during my youth. The drive was scenic and refreshed old memories, updating images from long ago. In some cases the images were significantly different; usually the towns were smaller and often crumbling into oblivion.
A visit to a bird sanctuary was interesting, but as often the case with such places there is a touch of sadness. Only 2 of the species in the aviaries were from Africa, all the others were from other continents. Most birds seemed to be content, but the larger Macaws were clearly stressed one had pulled all the feathers it could reach from it body.
These creatures must be protected; I just wish we can do it with less exploitation.
February 24,25,26, 2005
We spent the last days before our return to the USA in Cape Town. This was a good way to end the journey. It also reflects the issues facing the country. Cape Town has 2 clear parts, the part where the wealthy live, shop, work and eat and the part where the poor survive. The wealthy live in apparent oblivion to the underlying issues. When talking to local folks they are optimistic (as they need to be), but they do not see the tensions and potential flashpoints as clearly since they are in the situation.
On our last morning we had a conversation with the porter that helped us carry our luggage to our car. He was a black man. He told us that is was very worried about the future. That things are very unstable and he can wait for his son to finish school and go to university that they he will have the opportunity to possible leave for another country where there may be a better future. He said that under the new government things had gotten bad for everybody. White, black, yellow, no matter what color your skin or what language you spoke. (By the way South Africa has 11 official languages. I did not mention South Africa before, if you had not guessed it yet). He has been a plant foreman under the previous government, but when the change can in the mid nineties he lost his job. All the good jobs were given to family and friends of the new government, He had gotten the job at the American owned hotel, because his wife had a good track record there and could refer him into the company.
February 27, 28, 2005
Well the long trek back is nearly complete. I am writing this on the last leg of 4 back to Texas. 19 hours of flying time and 5 hours waiting for connections. So far all has progressed smoothly.
It will be back to work tomorrow. This journey back will stay with us for a long time. We are changed by it. We now fear the future in SA a little more than before. When Mandela dies, which cannot be that far in the future, things could fall apart quickly. Similarly, if the next premier is not careful like Nbeke is, the flashpoints could set flame to the political tinder box very easily and very quickly. I hope we are wrong.
It’s good to back on US soil.
Sunday, January 23, 2005
EPA: Enterprise Protection Agency
From the New York Times:
"E.P.A. Offers an Amnesty if Big Farms Are Monitored
By MICHAEL JANOFSKY Published: January 22, 2005
WASHINGTON, Jan. 21 - The Environmental Protection Agency said on Friday that it would shield operators of large livestock operations from prosecution from air pollution violations if they participated in a new program to collect emissions data from their farms.
The information gathered from the participants would be used to determine which of the thousands of factory farms, known as animal feeding operations or A.F.O.'s, violate the Clean Air Act or other environmental laws."
Under the direction or at least the influence of the White House the EPA has once again failed to do it's job, just as it has so many times before. The current White House is there to help and protect the large enterprise or so called big business. Well it continues to do that well.
Now it is again weakening the protection of our already poorly protected air. Just visit any medium or large city and you can cut the air into chewable blocks of gunk. Now we are going to expand that to the factories called livestock operations in rural America. Big business paid for this when they made their donations to the re-election campaign. Now they get the value for their payment.
We should not be surprised. The current dubja regime is not interested in protecting our land and our resources for now and the future, just exploiting it as quickly as they can for their own personal gain. The pattern is familiar.
Please speak out against this. Join a activist group and let your voice be heard:
http://www.savebiogems.org/redford/ is a good group to join. You will be able to be heard together with the growing groundswell of voices that are saying enough is enough. The exploitation has to stop. There are better ways to do this. We do not need to destroy the earth to feed our need for wealth.
"E.P.A. Offers an Amnesty if Big Farms Are Monitored
By MICHAEL JANOFSKY Published: January 22, 2005
WASHINGTON, Jan. 21 - The Environmental Protection Agency said on Friday that it would shield operators of large livestock operations from prosecution from air pollution violations if they participated in a new program to collect emissions data from their farms.
The information gathered from the participants would be used to determine which of the thousands of factory farms, known as animal feeding operations or A.F.O.'s, violate the Clean Air Act or other environmental laws."
Under the direction or at least the influence of the White House the EPA has once again failed to do it's job, just as it has so many times before. The current White House is there to help and protect the large enterprise or so called big business. Well it continues to do that well.
Now it is again weakening the protection of our already poorly protected air. Just visit any medium or large city and you can cut the air into chewable blocks of gunk. Now we are going to expand that to the factories called livestock operations in rural America. Big business paid for this when they made their donations to the re-election campaign. Now they get the value for their payment.
We should not be surprised. The current dubja regime is not interested in protecting our land and our resources for now and the future, just exploiting it as quickly as they can for their own personal gain. The pattern is familiar.
Please speak out against this. Join a activist group and let your voice be heard:
http://www.savebiogems.org/redford/ is a good group to join. You will be able to be heard together with the growing groundswell of voices that are saying enough is enough. The exploitation has to stop. There are better ways to do this. We do not need to destroy the earth to feed our need for wealth.
Sunday, January 16, 2005
I have seen this before...............
The New York Times recently reported (January 12, 2005) that the White House intervened in attempts to limit the methods used by US security agencies to get information from suspects. Apparently Condoleezza Rice argued that laws protecting prisoners already existed in international law and the US did not need to limit the powers. Our first reaction to this may be that giving the government power to do what it chooses in this situation is OK. It is being applied to terrorists and on foreign soil and to protect us. The catch is that once the laws are on the books they apply to all of us in the future.
I grew up in a country under siege and fighting a terrorist war. The government then used the same arguments we are hearing here now. The result was a set of laws over time that completely deprived the citizens of the country of basic freedoms and rights. Slowly eroding the rights of the individual in the name of national security.
I grew up in a country under siege and fighting a terrorist war. The government then used the same arguments we are hearing here now. The result was a set of laws over time that completely deprived the citizens of the country of basic freedoms and rights. Slowly eroding the rights of the individual in the name of national security.
Saturday, January 01, 2005
Freedom is ours to protect
NY Times: Rehnquist Resumes His Call for Judicial IndependenceBy LINDA GREENHOUSE Published: January 1, 2005
ASHINGTON, Dec. 31 - Chief Justice William H. Rehnquist, delivering his 19th and most likely his last year-end report on the federal judiciary, returned on Friday to one of his longtime themes: a need to safeguard the independence of federal judges from intrusive Congressional oversight.
This year he took account of more recent developments: "There have been suggestions to impeach federal judges who issue decisions regarded by some as out of the mainstream. And there were several bills introduced in the last Congress that would limit the jurisdiction of the federal courts to decide constitutional challenges to certain kinds of government action."
There have been calls in Congress to strip the federal courts of jurisdiction to hear challenges to the phrase "under God" in the Pledge of Allegiance, to the display of the Ten Commandments on government property and to the Defense of Marriage Act, a federal law that permits states to withhold recognition of same-sex marriages performed in other states.
The US citizens must pay attention to what our elected representatives are doing. With the moves they seem to be pushing, together the Patriot Act the basic freedoms we are fighting for so bravely in the Middle East are being eroded away right under our noses.
Pay attention to what they are doing. Do not let the people we elected take away our basic rights. We elected them to serve us and protect us, not to betray us.
This is the USA. Many have died to give us our freedom. Do not let misguided politicians take them away.
ASHINGTON, Dec. 31 - Chief Justice William H. Rehnquist, delivering his 19th and most likely his last year-end report on the federal judiciary, returned on Friday to one of his longtime themes: a need to safeguard the independence of federal judges from intrusive Congressional oversight.
This year he took account of more recent developments: "There have been suggestions to impeach federal judges who issue decisions regarded by some as out of the mainstream. And there were several bills introduced in the last Congress that would limit the jurisdiction of the federal courts to decide constitutional challenges to certain kinds of government action."
There have been calls in Congress to strip the federal courts of jurisdiction to hear challenges to the phrase "under God" in the Pledge of Allegiance, to the display of the Ten Commandments on government property and to the Defense of Marriage Act, a federal law that permits states to withhold recognition of same-sex marriages performed in other states.
The US citizens must pay attention to what our elected representatives are doing. With the moves they seem to be pushing, together the Patriot Act the basic freedoms we are fighting for so bravely in the Middle East are being eroded away right under our noses.
Pay attention to what they are doing. Do not let the people we elected take away our basic rights. We elected them to serve us and protect us, not to betray us.
This is the USA. Many have died to give us our freedom. Do not let misguided politicians take them away.
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