A journey to the past and the future

February 09, 2005

Not an auspicious start. The flight to Atlanta, leg one of 4 to our destination is late, 3 hours late. Luckily our connection in Atlanta is in the morning. We finally get to our “hotel” at Midnight. Hopefully we are getting all the mishaps and bad luck out of the way early. Side note. Using online booking services like Hotels.com might be convenient and save you money, but you might not get what you were expecting. Fortunately we were only going spend about 5 hours in the dump we got. Unfortunately the place made you feel like you were covered in fleas.

February 10, 2005

We got to the airport early. Good thing too. We had to get some airline imposed changes made to out tickets. That took about 30 minutes. But the result was worth it. We got a row with four seats to share between 2 of us. The 16 hours of flying would be more tolerable with some space to move around and maybe get some sleep. The first leg was 6.5 hours with a refueling stop of 1 hour followed by another 8 hour leg to Johannesburg. Then the final leg of another hour or so to Port Elizabeth.

February 11, 2005

This would be the first time we step on our birth soil in 21 years. The excitement was building. The place will differently look different to when we left. Boy were we surprised. Very pleasantly as well. We needed to buy a new ticket to accommodate changes to our schedule. Instead of flying to Cape Town and driving to Port Elizabeth, we would fly directly to PE. What a good choice. Driving 650 kilometers after 2 days of sitting in aircraft would not have been a lot of fun. Here was the first sign that things were going to be really good. When we boarded they gave us new seat assignments, free upgrades to business class. That was good. Not only were we going to get to our destination for the night early, we were going to get there very comfortably.

We had been told there was a serious drought in the country. The scene below us was a carpet of greens in all directions. No drought in sight. Apparently the drought is focused around Cape Town in the western Cape. Well we will be there in a few days. We will see how bad it is then.

PE was another surprise. We picked a hotel at random. It was a relatively new place, part of a big international chain. It turns out it is part of a large complex that includes a multitude of shops, movie theater, casino and great restaurants. We picked a Greek restaurant and had some excellent lamb dishes. It has been many years since we had a really good Greek dinner. They seem to be so hard to come by in the US.

February 12, 2005

Two hours of driving gets us to our initial destination. Kariega Private Game reserve in the Eastern Cape. Our first outing would be a 4x4 drive starting at 4pm. We had a great lunch and pottered about getting ready for the drive.

What a drive it was. The game ranger has no fear of driving anywhere that vehicle could actually go. Track or not track in the bush. We had a great outing. We saw Impala, Waterbuck, Eland, Elephant, and after dark we came across two young male lions. We followed them for about 30 minutes. It was about 9pm when we made it back. Exhilarated by what we saw. Hungry as well. After a Kudu steak and some fine wine sleep jumped all over us. We will need to get up at 5am for the morning for the dawn drive and river cruise.

February 13, 2005

At 5am the sun was creeping over the horizon, a large orange ball of color easing into the horizon. We were ready to hit the tracks again and we did. We saw more antelope, giraffes, zebra and finally a white rhino. He was just lying in the middle of a large expanse of grassland. We approached within 25 feet. He just lay there. Finally he arose, posed for pictures and turned away, having done his duty for the tourists, paid his way.

We saw some beautiful birds as well, a European Bee-eater, finches, ducks of various sorts, Knysa Lourie, buzzard and eagles. Of course we saw Vervet monkeys scurrying about in the trees as well.

Butterflies are every where. The colorful shield spiders are everywhere. Their webs are immense traps for the unwary. They spanned six feet in many cases, hanging delicately between tree tips.

The afternoon drive was fun! A new group of people to talk to while experiencing the unfolding scene before us. We found our white rhino friend from the morning. He has moved on quite a bit and was mowing the grass very efficiently. White rhinos are specialist short grass eaters, and they leave a nice short lawn behind them as then trundle forward.

We also met up with the herd of elephant from the previous night. They were much calmer tonight. Not as irritated by our presence as before. I managed to get some really good shots this time.

Out two young male lions were strolling along the same road we saw them the previous night. Playing like two young kittens. Hiding and pouncing on one another. We headed for dinner after another fulfilling day.

February 14, 2005

Valentines day. Better not forget. I did not. I delivered my cards and a surprise gift that did the trick. The day will be good.

We went for an unguided hike starting at 5:30am. The trail was called the Wildebeest Trail and we ran into a herd of them right at the outset. They scampered off into the thick bush were they hoped we would not follow them. They were right, our path led another way, into the rising sun. The air was clean and cool, not cold. A great time for a walk in the bush. We saw lots of wild flowers and insects, and the call of many birds, treated to a flash of color or swift flight to make sure they were at a safe distance from us. At the furthest point we reached a lookout over a beautiful valley with a medium sized river meandering through it. What a reward for our effort. A sight to please anybody. If you did not see beauty in this, you were either dead, or should be.

A hearty breakfast after our 3 hour early morning walk was consumed eagerly. That morning air sure builds an appetite.

I went on a second walk a little later. It was a little shorter but was filled with wonder. Many shield spiders blocked the path with their elaborate and beautiful webs, sitting in the center, waiting for their next meal to succumb. A small group of zebra added some excitement to the walk, basically ignoring you, but a close watch revealed they were stealing glimpses all along.

The evening drive tonight was the last one of this trip to Kariega. We encountered 3 rhino early on and then after a rather adventurous ride up the side of a steep hill and over multiple small trees and bushes we found ourselves in the middle of a herd of elephant. The matriarch (also the leader of the herd) was none to pleased at first, and approached the 4x4 rather ominously. Our ranger talked to here in a calm and quiet tone and she calmed down. Backed off and continued with her destructive eating. We sat among them for about 20 minutes just enjoying being part of the herd. Watching them dexterously stripy the sweet leaves they want from the thorny acacias. Rip a small shrub or tree out of the ground, neatly shaking it free of soil and consuming it rather nonchalantly.

February 15, 2005

We were up early, ready for our last morning and our drive to the Karoo in the western Cape. A quick short hike to finish the visit. I found multiple large spider webs, with the beautiful and colorful inhabitants. After some pictures we headed back. After breakfast we were back on the road.

The drive along the coast was spectacular. Plettenbergbay was great stop for lunch. A stunning beach, white sand and a colorful town. A quick lunch and we were off.

We chose to take a side route, off the beaten path onto the Tsitsikamma Forest. The trees reaching for the clear blue sky, in many shades of green, each its own design, its own unique little world. We had learned that the forests that start in this general vicinity are poart of the plant kingdom called Fynbos. The smallest plant kingdom, but very rich in varieties. The name comes from the fact that most of the leaves on the plants in this kingdom are very small, or fine. Fyn is the Afrikaans word for fine.

Suddenly there was a sign, Wolf Sanctuary! There are no wolves in this part of the world, not naturally at least. We could not resist. We had to investigate. This was both a hopeful and depressing place. The wolves are all rescued from unscrupulous people that smuggled them into the country illegally many years ago. Some were part of an experiment to cross breed the wolves with dogs to create a super guard dog. As could be expected it failed. Hybrids, as they are called, also retain there wolf nature, the unpredicableness cannot be managed or bred away. So here they are with all these wolves that need a safe place to live. Stuck in a climate that does not suite these wonderful animals, forcing them to adapt and shed twice a year. They just need to hang out in the dens created for them. Most of them have very serious hip displaysha and spend their time sleeping. Only 2 of the 50 or so wolves looked lively and happy.

This sanctuary is an example of place they should not need to exist. But due to man’s crass arrogance and stupidity it does. These animals have had miserable lives and in some cases they are being kept alive to please humans. Many of them would be better of being euthanized. One of the wolves is deaf and close to being totally blind. Many are in clear pain when they try to move.

We moved on with heavy hearts. We love wolves and do what we can to support their protection. This place is both a blessing and a curse. At least these animals are protected in their waning years. Regrettably it will be in suffering and pain.

We reached our destination, Worcester by late afternoon, ready to start phase 2 of our journey.

February 16, 2005

We drove to a small game park today, called the Bontebok Park. This a small place with a unique inhabitant, the Bontebok. There are a small number of these beautiful animals left in the world, and this place is where they live. Roaming around in small groups, either on their own, or with Zebra or Red Hartebeest. The dirt road was a little rough on the car, but it was worth the drive.

While there are hints of green on the mountains, it is very dry. The worst drought this region has seen in recoded history. Some places have not had rain in 8 years. The vineyards are struggling. Many need to either close down, or cut back there operations substantially. The main water supply in the Hex River valley, a key wine growing region is a man made dam. Currently it is one third full and the level is dropping daily.

February 17, 2005

We have been visiting our birth land for some time now. It is our first return in 21 years. It has changed in many ways. For a start the driving has become very aggressive. As a non-local you really need to pay attention. It is interesting that the driving has degenerated to be similar to what I have seen in several so called undeveloped countries. So be warned. If you get into a car here, pay attention. Your life will depend on it.

It has been 10 years since there was a radical change in government, from one dominated by Caucasians to one dominated by the Xhosa tribe. It is interesting to observe how people now behave. It is very different to when we left. There is a levels of apparent cooperation and civil interaction between the many ethnic groups that make up the population, but if you really look you will see there is a strong undercurrent and tension. Amongst the Caucasians there is almost a palpable desperation that the current state of cooperation and apparent peaceful state will continue. It is clear that if that were not true their lives would become miserable, either because it will be civil war, or because they will become the under trodden. For the non-Caucasian groups you almost get the feeling they do not care, except for the people of mixed race. Historically known as the “colored” people. They are a substantial ethnic group with a unique culture and lifestyle. For the black ethnic groups the future can not be worse than the past, so any future is OK. At least that is what many believe.

This is clearly not true, but from their perspective and historic context it is understandable. My personal fear has long been that this country will erupt in civil war at some point. I thought it would have happened already, but everything I see around me tells me that it is still very possible, all that is needed is the spark, and that could be anything. Unrest is still frequent. The causes are many. Any one can be the one spark that sets it aglow.

February 18-20, 2005

We have been visiting with family and just relaxing. There is not much to do in small town in the middle of the Karoo. Daily outings to photograph the mountains is a highlight.

Reading the paper, listening to the news and to local people all confirms the earlier conclusions. This place is a powder keg waiting for a spark. There is tension in many places. Racial tension is probably the least significant issue. Financial divides, homelessness, unemployment, HIV/Aids and government interference at all levels of life are much more significant. Trade unions have gained in size and power and appear to be increasingly at odds with the current government. This in itself is a key issue. The current government is actually very careful and conservative.

All actions they take are careful and implemented slowly and with caution. The unions are much more aggressive and want action much faster. As can be expected they have a strongly socialist agenda which is not necessarily what the bulk of the people want or understand. Historically the country has been capitalist and the economy is one built on free enterprise. In the past 10 years government regulation has overwhelmed business and is strangling small business. It is becoming almost impossible to start a small business since they are subject to the same bureaucracy and overhead a large corporation, requiring payment of health insurance; pension funds contributions and group insurances even if you employ only 2 or 3 people. In addition, it is almost impossible to terminate an employee, no matter how badly they perform. Just about the only way to terminate people is to shut the business down. If you do that, you cannot start he same type of business for several years. If you do start the same business again, you must re-employ the same people if they have not found new employment.

On the subject of AIDs the government is in denial. In a report from the government this week reported on the fatality rates across age groups in the country. The 30-40 year old group now has the highest mortality rate in the country. However, most deaths, while caused by AIDs are reported and officially recorded as TB or pneumonia. All this is doing is further exacerbating the problem. No one really knows the true rate of infection in the country, but this is sure, it is very high. Official estimates are around 10%, but other are as high as 25%.

Clearly these are not conditions that stimulate growth in an economy and the resulting tensions amongst the employed and unemployed, the haves and have-nots are building. With some good fortune they can resolve the issues, but it will take a few small miracles.

We drove down to Stellenbosch for dinner with some relatives this evening.

Moyo at the Spier Winery was a great experience. An interesting blend of traditional food, authentic African dance, music, and face painting with a modern touch of marketing and presentation. We had a great time, loved the food and enjoyed catching up with 21 years of news!

February 21, 22, 23, 2005

We went on a long day trip to Oudshorn to visit the Cango Caves and places I knew during my youth. The drive was scenic and refreshed old memories, updating images from long ago. In some cases the images were significantly different; usually the towns were smaller and often crumbling into oblivion.

A visit to a bird sanctuary was interesting, but as often the case with such places there is a touch of sadness. Only 2 of the species in the aviaries were from Africa, all the others were from other continents. Most birds seemed to be content, but the larger Macaws were clearly stressed one had pulled all the feathers it could reach from it body.

These creatures must be protected; I just wish we can do it with less exploitation.

February 24,25,26, 2005
We spent the last days before our return to the USA in Cape Town. This was a good way to end the journey. It also reflects the issues facing the country. Cape Town has 2 clear parts, the part where the wealthy live, shop, work and eat and the part where the poor survive. The wealthy live in apparent oblivion to the underlying issues. When talking to local folks they are optimistic (as they need to be), but they do not see the tensions and potential flashpoints as clearly since they are in the situation.

On our last morning we had a conversation with the porter that helped us carry our luggage to our car. He was a black man. He told us that is was very worried about the future. That things are very unstable and he can wait for his son to finish school and go to university that they he will have the opportunity to possible leave for another country where there may be a better future. He said that under the new government things had gotten bad for everybody. White, black, yellow, no matter what color your skin or what language you spoke. (By the way South Africa has 11 official languages. I did not mention South Africa before, if you had not guessed it yet). He has been a plant foreman under the previous government, but when the change can in the mid nineties he lost his job. All the good jobs were given to family and friends of the new government, He had gotten the job at the American owned hotel, because his wife had a good track record there and could refer him into the company.

February 27, 28, 2005

Well the long trek back is nearly complete. I am writing this on the last leg of 4 back to Texas. 19 hours of flying time and 5 hours waiting for connections. So far all has progressed smoothly.

It will be back to work tomorrow. This journey back will stay with us for a long time. We are changed by it. We now fear the future in SA a little more than before. When Mandela dies, which cannot be that far in the future, things could fall apart quickly. Similarly, if the next premier is not careful like Nbeke is, the flashpoints could set flame to the political tinder box very easily and very quickly. I hope we are wrong.

It’s good to back on US soil.